Frequently Asked Questions About Fragrance Development
How does a fragrance development project work with you?
The project starts with the Scent Trinity™ Strategy Session: an intensive workshop where we analyze your brand DNA, define the fragrance direction, and develop a clear roadmap for the coming months. Based on this, I compose three distinct fragrance sketches, each interpreting a different facet of your brand. You select your favorite. In up to five feedback rounds, we refine the composition until it precisely reflects your vision. The final fragrance oil concentrate is then produced in Grasse to the highest quality standards.
How exactly does the Scent Trinity™ Strategy Session work?
In preparation, you'll receive a questionnaire to complete online. The session typically takes place via video conference. We dive into your brand values, analyze your target audience, and identify the emotional core messages your fragrance should convey. Inspirational sources like mood boards or reference scents can help but are not required. By the end, we have a clear vision: the olfactory direction suited for your brand, the emotions your fragrance will evoke, and the audience it will reach.
What if my brief is still unclear?
The Scent Trinity™ Strategy Session is designed to do exactly this. Most brands come with a gut feeling, but lack the words to describe it. That's entirely normal. My role is to translate that gut feeling into a precise olfactory direction. Through targeted questions, scent references, and association exercises, we move forward until we arrive at a crystal-clear vision.
How many iterations are typical before a fragrance is market-ready?
Your standard package includes up to five revision rounds. Experience shows most projects wrap up in three to four. The fifth round is your safety net for fine-tuning. If you need more, it’s usually a decision-making issue, not a fragrance issue.
How do you structure the feedback loops?
After each iteration, you receive physical samples for testing. We then discuss your feedback via phone or you email me: what works, what doesn't, which associations surface. Your feedback must be precise. The more precise your description, the more targeted my adjustments.
How long does it take to develop a custom fragrance?
From strategy workshop to final, production-ready fragrance oil, you can expect 3 to 5 months. You receive your first fragrance drafts in 4 to 6 weeks. You typically receive a revision within 2 to 4 weeks. The total duration depends on how quickly you test and give feedback. Prompt decisions shorten your timeline. The subsequent optional production phase adds about 12 weeks.
How many projects do you handle simultaneously?
I intentionally limit the number of concurrent projects to give each one my undivided attention. I currently accept a maximum of 2 to 3 projects at a time.
How do you receive your fragrance designs?
You receive the fragrance sketches as physical samples to test and experience. The samples are custom compositions, individually developed for your project. Each sketch is a distinct expression of your brand identity.
Raw Materials & Quality
Do you work more with natural or synthetic ingredients?
It depends entirely on what the scent needs. Natural ingredients bring soul. Synthetic molecules bring structure. A masterful fragrance harnesses the strengths of both.
Which raw materials are used?
My partner in Grasse gives me access to around 1,000 raw materials. I work hybrid: natural oils, absolutes, and resins bring depth and complexity. Synthetic molecules deliver precision, longevity, and consistency. The art lies in the combination, not in ideological dogma. Silver Lining, for example, contains about 30% natural ingredients, including nearly 25% natural citrus oils, combined with modern synthetic accords.
Can I contribute my own raw materials?
No. The reason is safety and regulatory compliance. Reliable adherence to the EU Cosmetics Regulation is only possible with tested raw materials from known sources. Customer-supplied raw materials would significantly complicate the CPSR (Cosmetic Product Safety Report) and increase its cost.
Do you have access to exclusive or limited materials?
To a certain extent. I work with my manufacturer's palette to keep the process seamless. Exceptions are possible, but they add complexity and cost.
Can you incorporate regional German raw materials?
Germany offers only a few natural perfume raw materials. Chamomile is one. Some synthetic materials, such as vanillin, are produced locally. The fragrance industry, as part of the international chemical sector, operates as a tightly integrated global network. Regional sourcing for storytelling purposes is possible but quickly encounters regulatory and practical limits.
Do you perform stability tests?
Yes. Stability testing is an integral part of product development, performed by the contracted laboratory as part of the CPSR. It assesses how your fragrance behaves over time and under varying temperatures and light conditions.
How do you handle microbiological testing?
For fragrances with a high alcohol content, microbiological testing is typically not required. For other cosmetics, such tests form part of the EU safety report and are conducted by a licensed Safety Assessor. This is a legal requirement, not an option.
Do you test compatibility with the bottle?
It depends on your chosen flacon. With standard glass flacons, you rarely encounter compatibility issues. For specialty materials, coatings, or atypical pump mechanisms, I recommend a compatibility test, which our lab can carry out.
Pricing & Terms
How is your pricing structured?
A flat rate with clearly defined service packages. Before your project begins, you know exactly what you invest and what you get.
What does fragrance development cost?
Development per fragrance starts at 3,250 € net. Included are three distinct initial concepts, up to five revision rounds, selection of the appropriate fragrance concentration, and a preliminary check of IFRA and EU compliance.
Is there a more affordable starting option for founders to minimize risk?
Yes. With the Scent Discovery Package, you start from €1,200 net. It includes three distinct initial drafts as physical samples. You can test the scent directions, gather feedback, and then decide at your leisure whether to commission the full development. If yes, the amount is fully credited towards the total flat rate of €3,250 net.
What does production cost?
Production and filling costs vary greatly with quantity, bottle size, and packaging. Larger runs significantly reduce the unit price. I will send you a personalized quote once we have discussed your requirements.
What does a kilogram of fragrance oil cost?
That depends heavily on the composition. The higher the proportion of high-quality natural ingredients, the higher the material cost. For a premium or niche composition, we calculate the per-kg price after finalizing the formula. Transparent pricing: material costs are openly communicated, no hidden markups.
Are there differences between exclusive and non-exclusive projects?
Each project I develop for a client is exclusive. I never sell a formula twice. What's created for you belongs to your brand. You'll find details on rights and exclusivity below.
Can I pay in installments?
A 50% down payment before the project begins is standard. For larger projects, you may arrange an individual payment plan, which will be detailed in your proposal.
Regulatory & Production
Which legal standards are met?
Every creation complies with EU Cosmetics Regulation and IFRA guidelines. That is my standard.
How do you handle regulatory restrictions?
IFRA conformity is integrated into every formulation from the outset. I treat restrictions as creative guardrails, not limitations. Sometimes a restriction even yields a more compelling result than the original idea.
How do you replace an ingredient if it is restricted?
Through creative reformulation: I use alternative molecules that deliver the intended olfactory impression while remaining within regulatory limits. This is part of the craft.
Do you assist with the CPSR (EU Safety Report)?
Yes. I work closely with specialized service providers authorized to produce the Cosmetic Product Safety Report in accordance with the EU Cosmetics Regulation. I coordinate everything: a single point of contact for the entire process.
How do you handle the CPNP notification?
I cannot handle the direct entry into the CPNP portal (Cosmetic Products Notification Portal) for you, because access for external parties is heavily restricted for security reasons. I'll advise you through the process.
Do you assist with the Product Information File (PIF)?
Yes, when compiling the documentation. The PIF includes the CPSR, product description, manufacturing method, and supporting evidence. You, as the marketer, must designate the “responsible person” under the EU Cosmetics Regulation.
What minimum order quantities are required?
If you choose to bottle yourself, you only need the fragrance oil, available from 5 kg. Use it within one year to maintain the vitality of natural ingredients. If you prefer I handle bottling, we start at 100 pieces, ideally 250, to optimize the 5 kg minimum order.
Are there production limits?
There is no practical ceiling. My formulations are engineered for industrial scaling. When producing in the ton range, the availability of rare natural ingredients must be assessed, and a formula adjustment may be required.
Can you seamlessly transition my formulas to larger production runs?
Yes. I develop my formulas to be industrially scalable from the start.
Can you create an Extrait de Parfum with a higher concentration?
Yes, you can create a fragrance with a 25-30% oil concentration. Longevity doesn’t depend solely on concentration; the composition itself matters: certain molecules and natural combinations cling better than others. A 12+ hour longevity is ambitious, and I can embed that into your formula.
Do you also supply bottles and packaging?
I advise and guide you through the selection. I source through specialized suppliers. You have a range of premium options: from high-quality standard flacons with custom branding to fully bespoke designs (subject to minimum order quantities). For small test batches, I recommend standard flacons with custom labels, as bespoke designs only become cost-effective at larger volumes.
Rights & Collaboration
Who owns the final formula?
The fragrance formula remains with the perfumer, as is customary in the industry. You receive an unlimited usage right, tied to the quantity of fragrance oil ordered. This means: You may produce and sell the fragrance for as long as you wish. To reproduce the fragrance, simply reorder the fragrance oil from me. This ensures long-term supply and avoids significant quality and price fluctuations.
What if something happens to you? Will I still have access to my formula?
A fair question. My formulas are protected by a digital estate arrangement with a perfumer I trust. Specifically: if I can no longer access the data, this person is notified after four weeks and given access to the formulas. They can then continue to serve you as a client.
Is my formula truly exclusive?
I never use the same formula for two different clients. What is developed for you stays with you. For context: “Exklusivität” in the strict sense is generally difficult to achieve in the fragrance industry. A fragrance is not legally protectable. Anyone could theoretically have a duplicate made via CGMS analysis. This is what sets fragrance apart from music or literature. Only brand and design are protectable.
How do you ensure confidentiality?
I treat all project content, briefing, formula and brand information confidentially. An NDA is standard practice and signed before the project begins.
How does communication during the project work?
You work directly with me as your perfumer and brand strategist. The Scent Trinity™ Strategy Session takes place via video conference. In between, we communicate by email or phone as needed, no unnecessary meetings. One point of contact, no briefing ping-pong.
What do you expect from a good client?
Honesty in feedback, commitment to deadlines, and the courage to decide. A fragrance project stalls without decisive direction. Ready to walk this path? Then I look forward to your inquiry.